Agility, in action draws spectators from out of the woodwork. Everyone loves it as
the dogs speed around the course, working with tails wagging, hair flying and muscles
rippling. While it is the handler's job to direct the dog and help them do well, it is
certainly the dog who is in the limelight during the competition. Agility
was originally developed by combining the challenges of stadium jumping in the horse
world, with different challenges unique to dogs. Each course demands strategy from the
handler to get their dog from the start to finish through an array of obstacles within a
limited amount of time. However, the catch is that points are deducted for failing to
clear obstacles or correctly complete the course.
Now doesn't this sound like some-thing you and your Beardies would enjoy? I know
with the approach of the warmer weather, my own Bear-dies are awaiting the time when the
Agility equipment will be set up in the yard. Even though they have been practicing weave
poles all winter long (we shovel a path through the snow), they are still eager to get
back to the climbing, and jumping that they love! Remember just like human athletes, the
dogs need to warm up their muscles before at-tempting anything strenuous. Although
"Denia" and "Hope" have been playing Flyball (that's a topic for
another article!) while the Agility equipment is in storage, and they are in great shape,
we still insist on some stretching and warming up be-fore training over any Agility
equipment!
INTERESTED?
First start with a trainer or training school that has equipment which conforms to
the standards of Agility competition. Equipment must be well constructed and safe. There
is nothing worse than running a dog over wobbly equipment and to have the dog fall off,
only to become shy of the obstacle. If you do not feel that the equipment is built solidly
and safely, seek out another training organization. There are guidelines and regulations
set by all the governing bodies of Agility as to the specifications for heights, lengths,
and widths of equipment that should be followed when building equipment.
Every instructor will have different methods of teaching the obstacles. Look for an
Agility instructor who uses motivational methods, and incentives such as toys, food, and
praise to keep the learning fun! Re-member that one of the most important lessons your
Beardie will learn is control. Do not allow your dog to "run wild" at any time.
Keep training sessions short and fun! Before starting Agility training, your dog must
respond consistently to basic obedience commands, such as Sit, down, and stay. Most
importantly your dog must come when called!!
EAGER TO GET STARTED?
If your energetic puppy is climbing over everything in the house and you want to
start doing Agility work, hold on and wait. Let your puppy grow up a little more before
you are tempted to try out the jumps, or the tire. Young puppies can be taught how to do a
reliable Down Stay, by using food rewards and motivational techniques. You can start
teaching puppies at any age how to go through the flexible tunnel, and you can place a
plank on the ground to teach them how to walk on the dog walk or teeter-totter. Do not
allow the puppy or adult dog to play on Agility equipment unsupervised. As the dog's
partner in Agility, you must always be there to be the 'spotter'.
Many Agility training schools will start puppies in class as early as nine months of
age. Examine your own dog before signing up for class. Is your puppy physically and
men-tally mature to participate in a structured training class? Remember many
Veterinarians say that dogs should not jump or climb until their growth plates are fixed!
If in doubt check with your own Veterinarian before starting class.
Agility is also a great activity for the older dog. Before you start, make certain
that your canine team-mate is in good shape, and not suffering from spending time as a
"couch potato" over the winter months!
If you cannot find a training organization in your neighbourhood, there are many
good books, and videos on the subject of Agility authored by Jane Simmons-Moake, Julie
Daniels, Ruth Hobday, and Peter Lewis. Better yet, why not ask someone who is competing in
Agility with their own Beardie, (or another breed) for some help on how to get
started!
AGILITY ORGANIZATIONS
There are a number of different organizations who set Rules and Regulations for
equipment standards, and competition. In Canada, the sport of agility is governed by the
Agility Association of Canada (AAC). In the United States there are a number of different
organizations, each with their own unique set of Rules and Regulations. Two of these
organizations are The American Kennel Club, and the United States Dog Agility
Association.
Under the rules of the Agility Association of Canada, and The United States Dog
Agility Association, dogs cannot compete in sanctioned events until they are 18 months of
age. The American Kennel Club al-lows participation in sanctioned events at 12 months of
age.
With these restrictions, there is no need to push your puppy into training at too
young an age!
Sanctioned Agility tests are held throughout the year in Canada and the United
States. Events in Canada are advertised in the newsletter of the Agility Association of
Canada. Membership in this Association includes a subscription to the newsletter.
Memberships are $10.00 per year and can be obtained by writing to AAC Membership
Secretary, Emily Venator, RR #4, Newmarket Station, Barrie, Ontario L4M 4S6.
Agility Association of Canada (AAC) rule books may be obtained in either English of
French by contacting Elizabeth Nielsen, P0 Box 44, Richmond, Ontario KOA 2Z0, at a cost of
$10.00 for members and $15.00 for non-members.
There are also non-sanctioned events held in Canada, including matches and a
National Agility Team Challenge event that has eight Bearded Collies participating from
Ontario and Quebec! These include an all Beardie team, made up of 6 eager and active
Beardies!
HEIGHT CATEGORIES
Agility classes are divided into Mini and Open, based upon the jump heights of the
dogs entered. Your dog will need to be measured by approved Agility judges prior to
competing in sanctioned events. In Canada, classes are divided into four height categories
based upon the measurement of the dog at the shoulder. The smallest competitors are placed
in the 12" jump height class, next is 18", then the 24" jump height class,
for dogs who measure between 16" and under 21" at the shoulder The final jump
height class is 30", for those dogs who measure over 21" at the shoulder. Your
dog must be capable of jumping his appropriate height before being entered in a Sanctioned
event.
THE CLASSES
Just like there is more than one class at a conformation show, there are different
types of classes, or events offered at Agility tests. Agility com-petitions are similar in
structure to Obedience trials, in that there is a progression from the beginning level dog
phase to the more experienced level. The entry level class is called Starters. This class
is for dogs who do not hold an Agility title. The dog must achieve a clear round, without
faults, to be awarded an Agility Dog of Canada title. The dog will not be eliminated for
refusals of obstacles, or for runouts, as they would be in the Advanced or Masters Level
Class.
Standard Agility classes are offered for the Starters dog (non-titled), which
requiring one clear run. The Advanced class is for dogs who have a Starters title. These
dogs must achieve three clear rounds under two different judges under Advanced rules. Once
the dog has earned its Advanced title (AADC) in Canada, it may be entered in the Masters
classes. Here a dog must demonstrate versatility within the sport under a six part
qualification process. Three clear rounds under two different judges in addition to
qualifying scores from two different judges in three of four of the games classes. The
Standard Agility courses are never the same twice!
In addition to the Standard Agility classes, which include contact obstacles, jumps,
pauses, weave poles, and tunnels, there are the games classes. Do you think that your dog
is really a "Cool Hand Luke", then try out the Snooker courses, played similarly
to the game. The opening sequence consists of the "red" obstacles and one other
obstacle, and then a numbered closing sequence. Handlers choose the course to run in the
opening sequence, and then must complete the closing sequence before the time runs
out!
Maybe your dog is a real social kind, and likes to play with others. There are
events with your dog in mind! Pairs Agility has two dogs in the ring at one time, each
completing one half of the Agility course separately, while the handlers carry a baton
(like a relay race at the Olympics!). There is also the Team Relay, that has a team of
either three or four dogs, each running their own course separately, while their
team-mates wait patiently for their turn! The object of the pairs and team event is to
demonstrate team spirit and sportsmanship! Sounds like a perfect event for spirited
Beardies!
Have you managed to keep your Beardie's bounce going in a forward motion? If so, the
Jumpers class is just for the two of you. This event demonstrates the dog's natural
jumping ability. The course consists of only hurdles, and possibly tunnels. This event is
fast paced, and re-quires the dog and handler to be agile, and quick on their feet!
Are you the creative type? Then the Gamblers event may be right for you. As it
offers the handler the opportunity to design their own course. The handler seeks to
accumulate as many points as possible within an allotted time period. The
"Gamble" is a special challenge that requires distance control by the handler! A
gamble consists of 2 or more obstacles that the dog must complete in 10-20 seconds, all
while working a minimum of 5 feet from the handler! If you make the "gamble",
you are awarded bonus points!
AGILITY OBSTACLES
Ready to learn more? Lets start by discussing the different types of Agility
obstacles that you and your eager Beardie will encounter!
An Agility course consists of many different obstacles, which will require your dog
to bend, climb, balance, go through, jump, and stay! Your dog will be challenged by
different types of jumps, a pause table or pause box, an A-frame, dog walk, tire-jump,
teeter totter and tunnels. There are also the weave poles that always offer a challenge to
the dog and handler!
Very likely the most impressive obstacle to watch a dog perform with style, and
speed are the weave poles. A dog who performs this obstacle well is a joy to watch, as
there are many different techniques that reinforce accuracy and speed. The weave poles are
a series of poles approximately 1" in diameter, that are between 3' and 4' high. The
poles are spaced according to the judges instructions, between 18" and 24". A
minimum of 5 poles, to a maximum of 12 poles are to be used.
The dog must enter the series of poles from the right to the left, and weave between
all of the poles in sequence and in the direction that has been directed by the judge.
Dogs will be faulted for incorrect entries, or for failure to complete the weave
poles.
There are different styles of jumps used on the Agility course. These will include
single jumps, whose wings can be as creative as the builder! Often you will see picket
fences, or columns. An optional style of jump that you and your dog may encounter is a
Wall jump (easily displaceable if the dog knocks it), or a Wishing Well jump (the dog will
jump over the base, and under the roof!). The double bar jump is a set of parallel bars
that will be set 15" apart for the 24" and 30" jump height. The spread jump
will have bars 6", 12", 18" and 24" off the ground, with a 22 inch
spread for the 24" dogs, and 6", 12", 18" 24" 30" off the
ground with a 28" spread for the 30" jumping dogs.
The usual command for having your dog jump is "Over!" Commands must be
given clearly, and in advance of the jump that you wish your dog to take. Faults are
awarded for missed jumps, knocked down bars, or refusals. Pick a com-mand that is easy to
remember, and be consistent when asking your dog to jump!
Agility features a broad jump, which is similar to an obedience broad jump, however
the boards are between 4" and 8" high. This jump will consist of between 2 and 5
boards, depending on the jump height category your dog has been placed into. The 24"
height category will jump a 48" spread, and the 30" height category will jump a
60" spread. The de-sign of this jump is such that the highest boards are placed in
the middle, and the corners are marked by marker poles. Your dog must jump over the boards
in the direction indicated by the judge without touching the boards or the marker
poles!
The tire jump is just what you would expect! A tire that is a minimum of 17" in
diameter will be suspended by a frame, and set at the appropriate jump height. Your dog
must jump through the centre of the tire, and not go under it, or jump between the tire
and the framework. You may want to use a different command for the tire than you use for
the jumps. Think about your dog's reaction to be given an "Over" command for the
tire. Would your Beardie be likely to try and jump the framework? We know that they
could!.
Clubs have the option of decorating the jumps in a variety of creative ways. Proof
your dog on different types of jumps. Try dressing up the wings, with plants, or clothes.
Many clubs have jump standards that resemble sitting dogs who come as a surprise to the
Beardie who thought that they were the only four legged athlete in the ring!
For the dog, two obstacles that they find to be the most fun are the tunnels! There
are two different styles of tunnels used in Canadian Agility. One is the flexible tunnel,
which is between 15 and 20 feet long, and can be shaped in a variety of ways. Your dog
must enter the tunnel from the end directed by the judge and exit the opposite end
(penalty points are awarded for the dog that can turn around and come out the same end
that it entered!). Dogs are also not permitted to jump over the tunnel, so be careful
about your choice of commands! The second type of tunnel used in AAC Agility is the
collapsed tunnel. This is a barrel with an opening of 20 - 24" and a 12 foot section
of material to the other end. The material is 72" wide at the opening. The collapsed
tunnel is often called a chute, and the dog is to enter the open end, and push their way
through to the end of the tunnel which is laying on the ground. Material may vary from
light weight "parachute" material to a heavier canvas.
Did you think that Agility meant all go? Not so! Control plays a very big role in
Agility, whether it is the control required to keep your dog on course, or the control
required to successfully complete certain obstacles. The Pause Table, or Pause Box, are
just two obstacles where control of your dog must be demonstrated. Your dog will be
required to perform a down stay for the count of 5. This means elbows must be touching the
table, and no raising of the body even if your dog barks! The table is set according to
your dog's jump height category, a 24" table for that height category, or a 30"
table for the bigger dogs. Tables may or may not have a solid base. The different types of
tables used by Agility clubs offer various training challenges to your dog. The table
count from the judge will be given backwards, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1, GO. Your dog must not leave
the table before the judge completes the word GO. If he does count continues! The pause
box offers the course designer a different style obstacle, and one that is not seen that
often. The dog must lie down inside the box, while it is on the ground. If you encounter a
pause box hopefully you have practiced your "down's" on damp grass!
Additional control is required when performing the contact obstacles. These include
the A-Frame, Dog Walk, and Teeter-totter. These obstacles feature Contact Zones. In Canada
a contact zone is 36" long, and is painted a bright yellow colour. Your dog must
touch the contact on the way up the obstacle and another one on the way down. The A-Frame
is made of two sides that are 9 feet long, and a minimum of 3 feet wide to a maximum of 4
feet. The remainder of the A-frame can be painted any colour other than yellow, and should
have "grit" or sand painted into its surface to give the dog's better traction
on the way up and won. There are also "slats" spaced at 12 - 15" intervals
for added traction.
The dog walk is elevated 4 feet off the ground, with ramps 10-12 feet long, and 9 -
12" wide. There are slats at 12-15" intervals, and the surface should be painted
with a grit. The contact zone will be the bottom 36" of the up and down ramps.
Occasionally you will be asked to perform a Cross Over. This is similar to the Dog
walk except that there are four ramps leading to a table that is 36" square. The
ramps are 10-12 feet long, and 9-12" wide. The con-tact zone is 36" and the same
"grit" surface should be on the ramps. The judge will indicate which ramp is the
up ramp and which ramp is the down ramp.
Contact zones must be taught to be respected. Dog's that miss contact zones are
faulted! Special care must be used when teaching your dog to respect the contact zones.
Use a motivational method such as food rewards on the zones. Safety is of the utmost
importance when teaching these obstacles as they are elevated off the ground, and a fall
could injure or frighten your dog. A contact obstacle is not an "Over!"
Similar in style to the dog walk, the teeter-totter or see-saw is 12 feet long, and
9 - 12 "wide. It is 24" to the top of the plank, and the contact zones are
36". There are slats at 12-15" intervals, and the teeter totter may be painted
with a "grit" for better footing. Your dog cannot leave the teeter totter before
it is resting on the ground. Once again, control must be taught to make sure that your dog
touches both contact zones. Teach your dog to find the balance point, and not run off the
end!
I cannot stress enough the importance of doing control work with your dog. Canadian
Agility events are usually held outdoors in a area that is a minimum of 80 x 100 feet.
These areas are delineated by rope, flags, or fencing. Usually they are open sided, and
your dog must not stop working or leave the ring. The footing is grass, and attention must
be given to having safe take-off and landing spots for the dogs.
In author Dr. M. Christine Zink's book "Peak Performance: Coaching the Canine
Athlete" she notes that the exercises performed in Agility are excellent conditioning
exercises for your dog. The weave poles, A-frame, teeter-totter, dog walk and tunnel all
can improve a dog's strength and coordination.
More and more people are discovering that Agility is one of the most fun activities
you can share with your dog. Agility is a great way to show-case our Beardies versatility!
Training in Agility helps to build confidence, and to maintain a dog's physical condition.
It is also a great way to continue spending time with the finished Champions who live for
the thrill of the ring!
Obedience competitors see Agility as a way to increase motivation, and to
demonstrate and improve the high degree of teamwork that they have developed with their
dog.
Owners of companion Beardies can get started in Agility as a fun way to spend
quality time with their dog, and these owners often got hooked on the excitement of
competition!
I hope that this article has stirred your interest in the sport of Agility. Agility
training whether for fun and exercise, or for competition is truly an activity for any
sound dog. If you think that you and your Beardie(s) would enjoy this great sport, and
don't know how to get started feel free to contact me at: denia@interhop.net. If you have already started
your Beardie in Agility keep me posted on your progress!
